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For the highest durable non-reflective finish.

.47 L / 16 oz.  $70    
.94 L / 32 oz.  $125    
3.78 L /  128 oz.  $375    

Parkerizing is a metal etching or phosphating process, which not only enhances the cosmetic appearance of metal but acts as a protective coating. It provides an even more durable finish than bluing as its extraordinary oil retention properties make for a finish that is more abrasion and corrosion resistant. 


There are a variety of uses for this product. It’s not only popular among gun owners and motorcycle restorers, particularly for Harley-Davidson WWII collectors, but is in demand for automotive, aerospace and industrial applications. 


It’s also often used as metal substrate before applying such finishes as DuraCoat or CeraKote (a thin-film protective ceramic coating).


Allegheny Arsenal Parkerizing is a one-step formula. It replaced our former Parkerizing product when Radocy discontinued operations. If you liked the Radocy line, you’ll be equally impressed, if not more so, with Allegheny’s product. It contains phosphoric acid, methyl alcohol and petroleum distillates, to produce a durable, highly protective non-reflective finish.


There are two kinds available that produce the following finishes:



A gray military colour ranging from light to medium. This finish is commonly used by the military on service guns as it is non-reflective (dull not shiny).



A durable dull dark gray to charcoal (almost black) non-reflective finish. It contains a pre-blackener.


The product is supplied in concentrate form. It should be mixed with DISTILLED WATER using the applicable ratio of Parkerizing to water.


For the Zinc formula, the ratio is 1 oz. concentrate to 25 oz. distilled water.

Here is the table for the results of each size bottle available:

0.47L provides 11.83L         

0.94L provides 23.65L       

3.785L provides 94.63L    

16 oz. provides 400 oz. (3.125 gallons)

32 oz. provides 800 oz. (6.250 gallons)

128 oz. provides 3200 oz. (25.0 gallons)

For the Manganese formula, the ratio is 1 oz. concentrate to 28 oz. distilled water.

Here is the table for the results of each size bottle available:

0.47L provides 13.24L       

0.94L provides 26.49L       

3.785L provides 105.99L   

16 oz. provides 448 oz. (3.5 gallons)

32 oz. provides 896 oz. (7.0 gallons)

128 oz. provides 3584 oz. (28.0 gallons)


Aug 2/22 R.B., Brentwood Bay, BC

AA’s Manganese Parkerizing worked very well..smooth and dark look. 


Nov 16/21 L.L., Regina, SK

I’m really surprised with the results (AA’s Manganese Parkerizing). Looks real good…better than factory!

Mar 12 & 13/21 W.B., Fairview, AB  

Packaging is best I’ve ever seen! The first AA Manganese Parkerizing job on a bunch of head bolts and washers turned out great… ‘before’ pics but here are some ‘after’ ones. 


What finish is produced by the Parkerizing solution for a firearm?

Depending on the metal components in the various parts of the firearm there may be some variation in the colour achieved.  The finish is usually quite uniform but there can be some differences between the barrel and other metal parts.  The chemical analysis of the metal involved (i.e. more or less chrome, iron, etc.) will determine the colour.  When oiled it naturally takes on a slightly darker appearance but if you use the formula as instructed on the bottle, you can achieve the colour desired.


With the Zinc solution you may get a variation on the gray colour but usually the finish is light to medium gray. With the Manganese solution, the finish colour will be dark to charcoal gray (almost black).


NOTE:  The colour shading can be manipulated by two variables:1) the length of time the item spends in the Parkerizing bath and 2) the amount of concentrate added to the solution.


What kind of metal can be parkerized? 

Only carbon steel can be parkerized. You can’t parkerize stainless steel, brass, aluminum or any other non-ferrous metals, These metals will contaminate the Parkerizing solution.


How much solution do I need to parkerize a firearm?

The amount of solution to be made from the concentrate depends on both the size of the piece being parkerized and the size of the vessel in which the Parkerizing bath will reside. In the case of a long gun, the tank size is relative to what area you can cover and therefore how much solution you need to make.  


Generally for a 7.5 L / 2 gallon tank, 236 ml / 8 oz. of concentrate needs to be mixed with the distilled water to parkerize a whole gun. For smaller parts or handguns, Parkerizing can be done on a stovetop with a  1.89 L / 2 quart stainless steel or ceramic-coated pot to minimize the amount of solution needed. 


Does the solution have to be seasoned with steel wool and if so, will it have to then be strained before use?

There’s NO need to season the solution.


Before parkerizing a firearm why do I have to partially fill the barrel with water before plugging both ends?

First, you always need to block the barrel when Parkerizing to avoid impacting the barrel rifling. When the barrel heats up in the solution, it can create gas in the barrel and the gas pressure can release the plugs.  You don’t want Parkerizing in the barrel as it ETCHES the metal. The Parkerizing finish is NOT appropriate for the inside of the chamber, which should remain smooth. 


NOTE: Don’t fill the barrel completely; just a quarter/half cup is needed.


Can I use a PVC or plastic tube to hold the solution instead of a stainless steel tank?

Yes you can but you must wait for the boiled water to be around 93 °C / 200 °F before adding the Parkerizing concentrate.  Be ready to work fast and get everything done in about 15 minutes as the water will cool off quickly.  Have all your parts ‘ready’ to be parkerized beforehand (i.e. cleaned and degreased).


To make the PVC vessel, cap both ends of the tube and scallop out a whole in the center.  Support the vessel on 5.08 cm x 10.16 cm / 2” x 4” wood pieces notched with a ‘V’ cut to make a stand.  You can also make a vertical tube capped at one end; wrap it with insulation to reduce heat loss and set up wiring so the piece can hang in the solution.


CAUTION:  SUPPORT TUBE SECURELY as it may become less stable when the hot solution is poured in.


What are the steps involved in Parkerizing a firearm?

Prior to Parkerizing, the metal must be cleaned and degreased so the finish properly adheres. Use RB-17 for the best prepping job.


If you are re-parkerizing a firearm, the finish should be stripped off by an experienced person or you can do it yourself using IOSSO Quickstrip to get the job done easily. It’s easier than bead blasting and doesn’t remove serial numbers. To avoid problems, we do not recommend working with muriatic acid or any other acidic compound to remove the previous Parkerizing finish.


Parkerizing is a 15 to 20 minute job plus preparation time. For large pieces a true STAINLESS STEEL tank is needed large enough to hold the parts (DON'T use a vessel that is common hot or cold rolled steel as the steel will phosphate). For small parts you can use a ceramic-coated or stainless cooking pot. Canada Ammo sells a nice stainless tank.


Follow the manufacturer’s instructions, which are basically the following:


  1. Prepare metal parts depending on the finish desired (sand/bead blast, buff or polish).

  2. Partially fill the barrel with water and plug (cork) both ends to prevent solution from entering the inside of the barrel and destroying the rifling in the bore.

  3. Wear cotton gloves to avoid finger marks and degrease parts.

  4. Mix concentrate and distilled water to make a Parkerizing bath. Heat until correct temperature has been reached, then add the parts.

  5. Submerge parts for up to 15  minutes until desired colour is achieved, then remove.  

  6. Rinse parts with clean water and dry well.

  7. Apply a really good lubricating, penetrating rust preventive oil. CLENZOIL is the best! The Allegheny Arsenal instructions make reference to using a neutralizer. This is simply a solution made from petroleum distillates.  We sell Clenzoil for this. It’s a great neutralizer that not only stops the Parkerizing action, but ensures no rust will occur.


Can I parkerize only the receiver of a firearm and not the barrel? My plan was to mask off the chamber face and the first part of the barrel so I don’t parkerize it, and to just suspend the receiver in the pot.

Trying  to mask off the area with duct tape, or even a water resistant tape used in heat-treating plants, is NOT recommended.  Even if you suspend the piece, the vapors can still seep in and impact the finish on the barrel.  Do not risk it – have your gunsmith take off the barrel to avoid any problems.


Can the Parkerizing solution be re-used?

Allegheny Arsenal advises that “depending on how much metal has been run through the solution, it may be re-used several times, adding water to retain the volume.“  However, this approach is always at your own risk. 


If you do attempt to recover the solution you MUST FILTER OUT ALL SEDIMENT/SLAG (metal debris particles) to avoid contamination as this can cause streaking on the metal finish (requiring sand/bead blasting again).  Store any recovered solution in a glass jar.


CAUTION: Be careful not to overuse recycled solution and always first try it on a disposable piece of metal to be certain it’s what you want.


Do I need a sealer on a parkerized finish?

No sealer is required other than a true rust preventative oil, like Clenzoil. Once the solution has been used, the piece must be well rinsed, well dried and then oiled. 


Can I use muriatic acid to pickle stainless steel to get the Parkerizing solution to take?

NO! It simply can’t be done.  Stainless does not have the same carbon structure as regular steel.


Is there a shelf life for the Parkerizing concentrate?

No, there is no shelf life however as with any cleaning or refinishing solution it should be used within a reasonable, realistic timeframe for the best results and must be kept from freezing. Store in a cool, dry place (and always away from children).

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